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Happy Thanksgiving.

1 squash (acorn/kabocha/butternut etc.)
Olive oil
Fresh ground pepper

3 Tbsp. white miso
3 Tbsp. rice vinegar
1 Tbsp. maple syrup/agave/brown rice syrup etc., more or less to taste
1 Tbsp. dry yellow mustard

Heat oven to 375F. Halve the squash and scrape the seed cavity clean. Pour a small amount of oil into each cavity and use it to baste the entire cut surface. Dust with pepper and place cut-side-down on a baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or so, about the amount of time it takes you to repot a couple of plants or listen to 1/2 of an LP, until the squash is relatively tender.

Whisk the remaining ingredients together until smooth. Remove squash from oven, flip, and baste the cut surface with the sauce. Return to oven for another 10 minutes or until squash is soft and the surface is toasty brown and caramelized.

Eat the squash with a spoon straight from the baking dish like an uncivilized human, or slice and serve on plates in front of company.

So this is a very nice wintry soup to make, where the grilled flavor enriches the dish a great deal in my opinion. Also, miso is involved as a salting agent. I have thought about acquiring a little hibachi to fire up in the evenings — an activity one can do rather painlessly in this city during the present season — but in the meantime, a grill pan works quite well, and is what I used in this case.

You will need:
1 small head or 1/2 large head cabbage
1 medium-sized Japanese sweet potato
1/2 large onion
4 or more cloves of garlic
2 cups cooked beans
6 cups stock
Ghee or olive oil
Salt
2-3 tablespoons shiromiso (white miso)

Chop the cabbage in half and remove the core. Shred or slice as fine as you would like to eat with a soup spoon. Heat your grill pan, and once it is hot, apply the cabbage. Let it get browned and a little burned, moving it around every so often. Swap out batches of cabbage to get the whole quantity grilled. While you are doing this, mince the onion and smash the garlic. Peel the sweet potato and chop into cubes. I say cubes the size of sugar cubes, but you may say something else.

At this point, your cabbage will probably be done grilling and should be put to wait in a bowl. Scoop some ghee or pour some oil into your soup pot and let it get warm. Add a pinch of salt to the fat and stir. Add onion & garlic and saute until slightly translucent. Add the potatoes and stir a bit more. It’s fine if things get a little browned.

Pour in your stock and add your beans. I have used black beans and white beans and navy beans and each version has been equally delicious, though aesthetically different. (Same goes for cabbage varieties. Red? White? Napa?) I will say that there is a structural difference between canned and cooked dry beans; the latter tends to hold up better in soups, but you should not fuss over this.

Bring everything up to a simmering state and taste. Depending your stock, you may need more flavor. This is when you add the miso, spoonful by spoonful, until the flavor is to your liking. Now add the cabbage and cook until tender. Then ladle into bowls and eat.

This is a wonderful soup with crusty bread and butter on the side, then yogurt & jam for dessert. And tea. And then, naptime.

6 servings

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